I'm looking for a dado blade for my 10 table saw. They come in different sizes that would work with my saw and I'm wondering which size is best for what.
I use a 6 stacked dado set on my table saw. Since dados are cut with a fairly shallow depth, you don't need much more than about an inch above the table surface.
If your saw does not have a lot of horsepower you may think about getting a single blade offset dado cutter. uses about 1/3 the horsepower as a standard stacked dado set. With carbide tips it will last longer for the price.
I have an 8 Craftsman wobble dado blade (like this one: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...subcat=Blades ) that I've been more than happy with. (about $50) Wobble dado's have a dial that controls how much the blade tips from side to side as it turns, and you can adjust it anywhere from 3/16 to 13/16. Some people don't like wobble dados because they do not make a perfectly square dado, but I've never had a problem with that. To be truthful, you can hardly notice it and in most cases, it doesn't matter anyway because that part of the joint is usually hidden. I like the fact that it is quick and easy to set, and I know exactly how wide the dado will be just by setting the dial.
Thanks for all the replies so far! I have a 3hp table saw and would like to have square cuts. Is there any difference in performance between stacked and adjustable dadoes? What about the ones I see on eBay for under $10?
I use an eight inch stacked Freud dado set and have had years of success with it. If you plan on using a dado blade fairly often on hardwood invest in a quality set. If only for occasional use and mostly softwood a wobble type blade is fine. Be leery of cheap imported carbide knockoffs. If you lose a tooth while cutting they can be lethal.
Like xsleeper, the wobble blade does a fine job, with less than perfectly square bottoms, but mostly unnoticeable. I have recently invested in a stacked blade system with shims, and there is a noticeable difference. While the wobble blade is infinitely variable, I was constantly unable to keep it in the proper position to cut exactly what I wanted. It would move on me before I got the saw arbor nut tightened. With the stacked head, nothing is left to the imagination. You use 1/8th inch blades and chippers until you get to a need for a 1/16th inch increment, then add it in. The bottoms are square, and accurate. As mentioned also, your kerfs are only going to be about 3/8 to 1/2 in depth anyway, so you can get by with a 6 wobble or 8 stack. Don't forget to invest in or make a dado slot for your saw, since the regular blade slot is too narrow. I prefer to use the nylon inserts for regular blades, and have one cut at about 1/2 to handle most of my dado jobs. Be careful, and remember to keep accurate count of your fingers. You have 10.
I have the same experience as xsleeper. The wobble dado works fine provided your setup for the cut is meticulous. It is worthwhile to mark the right and left most tooth for the cut you are making. My sears blade doesn't creep open but you have to put it on the arbor carefully. Next make a sample pass with only a fraction of the blade protuding (say 1/32). Check this out for the position of the groove and then lock your fence. I find that I need to come up no more than 1/4 for each pass. It happens today I am grooving rock maple. I also find that the work tends to rise and ride the blade so you need good hold downs against the fence and above the stock on either side of the spinning blade. I use two wooden push sticks and three separate hold downs. It takes a while to get ready but I play guitar and don't want to loose any fingers. I wish I could post a photo so I could show folks what I mean by three hold downs.
This is a 3 yr old thread and the OP is no longer a member.
Here is the background to the problem; I have a sump pump in the house, which has my weeping tiles leading into that pit (not happy with this design). When it rains, that pump is always running. I'm on town sewer, but well water. The sump pump is on a battery backup unit (don't know the age of it) and the pump is marked with a date of April 2011 (handwritten, assuming install date) We do get a few power outages in a year. What I am looking for is a backup solution (automatic or manual) in case the pump or battery unit fails. I'm suspecting with the volume of water coming in when it rains, and the dead pump count at 2 pumps in the corner of the basement (donno when they where replaced), that pump failure is very possible. I also do not currently own a generator (it's on the wishlist). My easiest options currently is to have a spare pump and a simple (slightly modified)fuel siphon hose. The spare pump is a given, but what about power or alternative pumps (design)? I had come up with a simple design that I had posted on a quick sketch of on another thread. Taking a simple siphon system, and replacing the hand pump with an electric pump, I could have a sump pump that should technically work as good as a standard pump, but once the water starts moving, the pump/motor stops running. This would greatly reduce the hours on the motor, and if the piping is sized right, could run almost electricity free. (Picture posted below). Does something like this or better exist?
If you are planning a siphon I assume the output line will at some point be lower than the water level in your basement which is not shown on your sketch. Where is your pump's output going. You show an in pipe but not an out? Will the output of your priming pump also be connected to the sewer? Here's my two cent opinion. Scrap the idea and buy a generator and keep a spare pump on hand, and make sure you have the tools and knowledge to install it. 1. You will need a rather large diameter pipe to get a decent flow, especially since you will be passing through a trap since this is connected to a sanitary sewer. 2. The minute the sump drains and air is sucked into the pipe your siphon will fail and has to be re-primed. Your siphon flow rate will be relatively fixed but the rate water enters your basement is constantly changing. If you had a very large reservoir (large tidal capacity) a siphon could do some real work if it's monitored. With a small residential sump I think it's way, way more trouble than it's worth. 3. Check the numbers on your battery backup pump system. Most I've seen with a separate DC bilge pump offer a much lower pumping rate than your main AC powered pump. If the AC pump is running almost continuously to keep up your backup may not stand a chance. Also work the numbers to see how long the battery will last and how that compares with your expected power outage, and don't forget that batteries loose their storage capacity over time so a few years down the road you will not have the same backup time as you do with a new battery. If there is a inverter battery that powers your main AC pump really check your numbers or run a test to see how long it will run when the power goes out. I've heard too many people say it worked fine for the first hour...
The siphon idea is just something I was kicking around. I actually changed the sketch after the post with a check valve in the foot of the intake and one on the output. That way with the pump fires, it's not sucking air from the output, and when the water drops too low for the siphon effect, the intake check valve (or similar) will hope a partial prime. Back to my current setup... The battery backup is attached to my main (lone) AC pedistal sump pump. From what I can see, it's basically the same as a PC UPS. As for the power outages, I have not experienced any yet out here (only been in the house a month), but I do have friends that have lived in this area for years, and it does happen a couple times a year. Some outages are short, some are a few hours. For the short term, I'll definately pick up a second pedistal sump pump as a back up, and keep a close eye on things. I know from reading a few other threads that some people really don't like the battery backups, but I guess in my situation, I don't have much option.
Hi Mike, Actually the siphon is easy to set up and although there are limitations, gravity is free. If you have the elevation to maintain a gravity flow, simply use a timer to charge the drain line, with a branch and check valve back into the same pit. With the pump running, the check valve would prevent water flow into the pit, but once the pump shut off the siphon would pull through the check valve and continue to drain the sump. If the siphon was able to exceed the incoming rate the flow would naturally stop as it pulled in air. If the incoming water is more than the siphon can handle, you would want another switch at a higher level to override the timer control and apply power to the pump until it brought the level back down to the first switch, where it would again run on the siphon until the cycle started over. Obviously there would be some design considerations, size of drain pipe and logic to achieve the above sequence, but adapting a siphon to a pump system is certainly possible and if you were to get it right, it would certainly reduce the load on the battery. Getting tricky, if the siphon was established and a float control was added to the input (in the sump) where it could reduce the inflow of water as the level went down and increase the flow as the level went up, then you might be able to start it and forget it for much longer time periods. The generator approach will always work, and a generator can do much more than power that pump. But when you have the elevation, the simplicity of a gravity drain just seems so attractive, and DIY. Bud
Bud; I'll work out the design and see if I can keep it simple, but working. If I can get the flow rate to adjust automatically, I may be able to keep the siphon running while the water flow into the pit is high (during a rain storm). My big concern with the current setup is that if we get a power outage while I am not home (I work 5 days a week, 80km away), that my wife (if she is home) will not remember or be able to attend to the sump pump (we have two very young boys) enough. The siphon idea would be ideal from what I can see as it would only require power to get the water started, and potentially a very limited amount of power to maintain the flow (should the water drops too low). I am sometime down the road, planning on moving most (or all) my critical items to a solar/battery system. The Quebec ice storm from a few years back is definately a push to get the sump pump and my boiler circulator pumps on a renuable energy source.
Oh yes, the ice storm of 98, I remember it well, I'm in Maine. Solar power is neat, but not an emergency solution for long outages. A battery back-up is a good short term fix, say a few hours, but not 5 days although the siphon experiment might extend the operating time. Be sure to let us know. My son installed one of the generator cut over systems and although expensive, it meets codes and is an asset to the value of the house, besides being really handy when the power goes out. But, even with his fancy system, it only runs until it is out of gas. Coming up with an unattended system that will go for days would take some planning. Solar/battery would be nice, but you are talking big. Bud
Originally Posted by Bud9051 Oh yes, the ice storm of 98, I remember it well, I'm in Maine. Solar power is neat, but not an emergency solution for long outages. A battery back-up is a good short term fix, say a few hours, but not 5 days although the siphon experiment might extend the operating time. Be sure to let us know. My son installed one of the generator cut over systems and although expensive, it meets codes and is an asset to the value of the house, besides being really handy when the power goes out. But, even with his fancy system, it only runs until it is out of gas. Coming up with an unattended system that will go for days would take some planning. Solar/battery would be nice, but you are talking big. Bud Read more: Sump Pump Backup Solutions I was luckly outside the effected area of that ice storm, but smaller scale storms like that scare the crap out of me now that we live in a smaller town. As for the generator system, my dad just switched over to a complete generator system with auto-start up and all (He originally had a portable genset and a manual throw switch). It works great for him as he does not have a sump pump, lives on a lake and designed their house around the potential of power outages. My parent's house could technically run powerless for a week or more. My house however (currently) if it's raining hard or in the winter, I'm screwed if it last more then a couple hours. I will be looking at one of those systems because they are now somewhat affordable. They unfortunately still only as good as the fuel supply. I'll play with he siphon design a bit and see if I can refine it enough to actually go ahead and build it. One of the advantages I have that will make this system work is tons of space in the basement and the ceiling in the basement is a couple feet higher then where the sump pump hose exits the house (solving the gravity issues). I am definately open for other ideas and or suggestions to the ultimate problem I have. Being that I have never lived in a house that needed a sump pump before, I am sure someone out there might have seen or knows of a solution that I haven't thought of.
Here are your options. 1. Prevent the water from collecting around your house if possible. Surface water can be directed away before it becomes a problem. 2. If the source of water is subsurface, then it will either need to be pumped or a drain to daylight created. You mention 200' to a drop to a stream. A trench with a drain line and some gravel and fabric might solve more than one problem, ie you might end up with a dry basement. I have a backhoe, so perhaps it seems easy to me. You could talk to the wife and see if you could buy one . If you could rent a big enough unit, a weekend might do it even for a novice. Check your soil before you go that route. 3. The pump route is the option at hand, so how bad is the inflow. Bud
I have relatives in the midwest that have a finished basement that requires the pump to run a few times an hour during normal periods and almost continuously during periods of heavy rain which quite often coincides with power outages. They tried numerous backup systems and the only thing that has reliably worked is a automatic stand by generator with automatic transfer switch. With all other systems (DC pump battery, batter AC inverter, spiphon, water powered pump) they were not reliable and consistent enough to be left unattended. They were afraid to leave the house when bad weather was predicted, trapped by their floodable basement. The automatic generator system was the only thing they found that was able to handle the water volume through a long term outage that can happen during spring when the snow melts and an ice storm knocks out power for days. The side benefit was that they could also have lights, tv, gas furnace fridge during the outage so they killed two birds with one stone. --- Personally I use siphons to drain ponds for maintenance. Getting a siphon going is easy. Getting it to do it automatically while you are 80km away is the hard part. If you use a large enough pipe to get the volume you risk having too low a flow velocity to flush air bubbles out of the highest point in the system. If not flushed out the bubbles will accumulate until the siphon is stopped. I don't think a couple feet is enough but if you have the pump to automatically get it going again it's not an issue. I imagine you will need a float switch that turns on the pump whenever it reaches a high point say 75% of your sump and turns off at about 50% or whatever is enough to get the siphon primed. That way if water is coming in slowly it will run the pump long enough to establish the siphon then turn off. When the sump is dry the siphon is broken and water slowly accumulates until it trips the float switch again. When water is coming in faster than the siphon can handle the level in the sump never drops below the cut-off point so the pump continues to run which increases your output.
Originally Posted by Bud9051 Here are your options. 1. Prevent the water from collecting around your house if possible. Surface water can be directed away before it becomes a problem. 2. If the source of water is subsurface, then it will either need to be pumped or a drain to daylight created. You mention 200' to a drop to a stream. A trench with a drain line and some gravel and fabric might solve more than one problem, ie you might end up with a dry basement. I have a backhoe, so perhaps it seems easy to me. You could talk to the wife and see if you could buy one . If you could rent a big enough unit, a weekend might do it even for a novice. Check your soil before you go that route. 3. The pump route is the option at hand, so how bad is the inflow. Bud I am definately going to be looking at the surface water and drainage. The eavestrough from what I can see pretty much drop the water a foot or two from the house, so that will be something to address. The back yard (which ends at the stream) has a slight grade to it (1-2 degrees total) so that can help. I'll also look into trenching the water (from the sump pump and house). I don't know about asking the wife for a backhoe. I've already gotten the go ahead for my new garage and the project Iltis (jeep), so I shouldn't push my luck. For right now, because I have ~2' of snow in the yard, I'll consentrate on what I can see/do and will keep note of the other suggestions for when the weather and $$ permit. (I guess it's a bit too far for me to ask if I can barrow your backhoe)
Originally Posted by Pilot Dane I have relatives in the midwest that have a finished basement that requires the pump to run a few times an hour during normal periods and almost continuously during periods of heavy rain which quite often coincides with power outages. They tried numerous backup systems and the only thing that has reliably worked is a automatic stand by generator with automatic transfer switch. With all other systems (DC pump battery, batter AC inverter, spiphon, water powered pump) they were not reliable and consistent enough to be left unattended. They were afraid to leave the house when bad weather was predicted, trapped by their floodable basement. The automatic generator system was the only thing they found that was able to handle the water volume through a long term outage that can happen during spring when the snow melts and an ice storm knocks out power for days. The side benefit was that they could also have lights, tv, gas furnace fridge during the outage so they killed two birds with one stone. --- Personally I use siphons to drain ponds for maintenance. Getting a siphon going is easy. Getting it to do it automatically while you are 80km away is the hard part. If you use a large enough pipe to get the volume you risk having too low a flow velocity to flush air bubbles out of the highest point in the system. If not flushed out the bubbles will accumulate until the siphon is stopped. I don't think a couple feet is enough but if you have the pump to automatically get it going again it's not an issue. I imagine you will need a float switch that turns on the pump whenever it reaches a high point say 75% of your sump and turns off at about 50% or whatever is enough to get the siphon primed. That way if water is coming in slowly it will run the pump long enough to establish the siphon then turn off. When the sump is dry the siphon is broken and water slowly accumulates until it trips the float switch again. When water is coming in faster than the siphon can handle the level in the sump never drops below the cut-off point so the pump continues to run which increases your output. Sounds like you have put a bit of thought into my idea. The automatic generator is on my wishlist, but not in the near future (have other priorities right now). On the siphon system idea... I am looking at solving the volume control (hopefully powerlessly). If I can solve that with a simple system that requires no power, the rest is easy.
Just to add to the siphon thinking. As Pilot mentioned, the larger the pipe the more difficult it is to maintain the flow. But what about multiple pipes? With three pipes you would increase the total capacity and with either different float levels or pick-up levels you could regulate the siphon capacity over a wider range. A lot of check valves, but a possibility. Bud
Tags: sump, pump, backup, solutions, sump pump, check valve, power outages, water coming, float switch, generator system, more than, only thing
OK, so I haven't taken a small engine class since High School so I am a little rusty on what to do here. I've got an old Craftsman tiller that has a 3 1/2 hp Tecumseh 144xxx model engine. It had very weak spark so I thought I'd replace the points and condenser. Afterward, the spark was less yellow more blue, but still felt pretty weak. So I tried adjusting the points again and now there is no spark. Nothing I do will make spark and I did not mess with the magneto gap at all. I am thinking that one of the coil wires leading to the points/condenser is so old and crispy (from age and heat) that it broke inside the insulation and that it's shot. So I ordered a new coil (since the entire magneto unit isn't available. But it came with the spark plug wire separately, with no ends on it. I'd like any tips you can offer about stick the plug wire into the coil (what keeps it in there? Are you supposed to glue it after you push it onto the pin?) and also what the process is to attach the spark plug clip and boot. I assume you thread the wire through the new boot, then strip it, attach the spark plug clip and then pull it back through the boot. But any detailed tips would be really helpful. It's on my grandpa's tiller and he's 96- still at home but too old to help me out with this sort of thing anymore. Wish he could be young again!
You can glue the new wire in and the plug clip on the end of the wire should be over the entire wire, not just the stripped part. Pull it out and see. I would make sure the coil is bad before replacing it. It takes special tools to set the gap on these.
There is also a little spring that came with the plug wire... what the heck is that for?
It looks like that spring goes inside the boot, but I'm not sure how. And there's another type of metal plug wire connector, so I assume that I should either use one or the other, but not both.
Finally had time to work on the tiller this afternoon and I feel like a man again. Beer 4U2 I ended up throwing away the spark plug clip that looks kinda like a spring, and I used the one that you could crimp around the wire- seemed like the better choice. And then I put some 5 minute liquid epoxy around the wire as I stuck it into the coil. Replaced the fuel line while I was at it. It looks like grandpa used vacuum hose. Put the coil on the armature, guessed on the point gap, and armature gap, put it all back together and it seems to run pretty well. (surprisingly) Only thing I need to do now is soak the carburetor, replace the carb gasket, breather gasket, and breather tube. For some reason the breather tube has shrunk back to where it's a bit too short to connect on both ends! No biggie. It has a little bit of a miss to it every few seconds, but I'm pretty pleased that it runs at all! Thanks for the help Cheese.
I just bought a Traditions (Whitfiled) Pellet Stove that is burning Golden Fire Premium West Coast Pellets. 22 bags into unit so it is broken in. After 12-24 hours of continious running..... Glass gets really dirty brown ash specs, mostly on LEft side, on low and even medium pellet feed settings. It gets Cloudy on HIGH feed with a little brown ash. I am running Damper of 7, reduced the calibration of the pellet feed and increased calibration of the exhaust combustion blower... anything lower gets screen browner (a lot browner) with ASH. Can't even see throught the top of glass after 24 hours running on LOW heat/blower.!!! Thought this was a clean burning operation, pellets I mean, but not so! Dealer says this is normal. DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS UNIT TO ANY NEW BUYERS OF PELLET STOVES. Unless, if anyone else has a TRADITIONS from Whitfield, please respond if yours is NOT doing this! I will listen to how you have yours set or any factory corrections you may have had done? I am not happy with this unit and now have talked to folks who have quadrafire's and they clean their glass about every 20-30 DAYS of running. I would be happy with once a week !
I found that the lower hinge on the glass door was somewhat loose and out of alignment. I kept hearing a metal clunk sound when I closed the door and had to raise it to close. After Adjusting, now I have 2 streaks of clear window, but the middle, right and left sides of the window are still couldy / ashy. I suspect this is due to the fact that hte 3 window hinges at the TOP of the window are in the way of the air coing thru the window wash area. Poor design!
Your dealer is correct. What you have to consider is pellets are not some miracle fuel, they are mainly compressed sawdust, which makes them...wood. When wood burns it creates 2 main things, ash and products of combustion (smoke and soot) The amount of soot created depends on how you run your stove, the make/model of the stove makes no difference, and the hinges are not affecting airflow. When the stove is slow or medium burning it is less efficient and produces more soot, thus covering the glass quicker. I have a Harman that will start to blacken the glass the first run after I clean it. Starting and shuting down the stove also causes incomplete combustion and more soot that covers the glass. Mine also seems to get covered most on the left. Pellet stoves aren't what I'd call clean burning, but they are easier to maintain than woodstoves. I vacuum the fly ash and clean the glass about every two weeks, the ash bucket I can usually leave alone till about a ton of pellets is burned. How often do you start/stop your stove? How often is it slow/low burning? The more you slow/low burn, the quicker the glass will get sotted up.
Mostly on Med to High both blower and pellet feed. NO thermostat in use, so no cutting in and out. I made it 39 hours running (about 8 hrs of that on LOW overnight) and had to clean windows. You are correct, when on LOW I get more brown ash on window, when on Med / High I get more Soot (white cloudy look). But in either case I can not seem to make it past 2 elapsed days of constant running. I am using Golden Fire west Coast pellets which are great, because when I tried 3 bags og Lignetics. man, I had 3 times the ash everywhere ! After adjusting hinges though, I do get (2) distinct clear window looking streaks, instead of just (1) before adjustment. This is because the airwash system comes down from the top of the glass and there are three window supports on the top of the glass (left, right and center)... it is in between these supports where the air flow is that the glass stays fairly clear. Poor Design, they should have put window support on sides where gaskets already seal the window to the frame, i.e there is no airflow there on the sides. A fellow at work has a Quadra Fire insert (about 40K BTU) and he cleans glass once every 200 hours of running on Medium, with thermostat in use. I think I've got it the best it will do for me, sgort of removing the middle top glass support to allow air to flow down the center, but that is probably not a good idea because I guess they put 3 supports there because there needed (maybe- haha), so I won't. Thanks for providing me your input!
Mine dirties up quicker than I thought it would as well, but when I think of the price I'm paying for heating oil, the dirty glass bothers me less A friend of mine has a Whitfield and his glass doesn't stay clean very long either, he also has a Harmon fireplace insert, same results.
Thanks ! My next one will be to check out these Quadra Fires...., but that will probbaly be a while....
Finally got the vendor at Lennox to call me. He answered a lot of my questions. He said for the room I am trying to heat, all windows (28X22), vaulted ceiling, 2 storm doors, the traditions was the wrong choice. And, he apologized that the dealer did not clearly explain how dirty this unit burns. We cranked up the calibrations settings for pellet feed and combustion air to get the higher BTU rating. Beyond the calibration setings, the unit has (3) speed settings for pellet feed and blower speed (low, med, high). Do not run this unit on LOW as the glass gets brown very quickly. Much better on medium and mostly white cloudy look when on HIGH. We agreed, per my suggestion, no affect on warranty, to remove the center window retainer at the top of the window. Did that, and after 10 hours now only the left and right side of window getting cloudy, center area staying relatively clear. The placement of these (3) retainers in my mind is a poor design. They should have been put on the sides of the window where there is no air needed to come in at. I'll bet that would clear up most of the glass being dirty issue! As the air wash comes in from the TOP of the window, all across the unit, but that's where they put the retainers!@#$@@@###
The left side of my glass is the worst as well, but I do allot of slow burning. My pellet feed and hot air blower settings ar infinetly variable, the combustion blower is entirely automatic, or I can set it manually, I keep it on auto. I read allot of reviews before I bought mine and did allot of research, but there's always surprises.
I have had a Whitfield Advantage for the past 8 or 9 years.. my first one would blacken the window if I used cheap pellets, stayed clean for a week if I used really good pellets.. it finally died this past winter, so I bought the newer model of the Advantage, it has been running for 2 months and I've cleaned the window once.. emptied the ash can once, I run it on 3 with a thermostat attached.. it puts out more heat than the older model, runs cleaner, holds twice the pellets (2 bags).. can't complain about anything on it so far..
I'm jealous ! Man, 2 months and no glass cleaning !!!
With my TRADITIONS only 1 year old, I am buying a HARMAN XXV, fully automatic. Sales are so backed up in Baltimore won't get installed until early November. Probably because home heating oil is going up folks are moving to pellets. So, in November I will have a 1 year old green enamel finish TRADITIONS. Works as well as a TRADITIONS can. ASKING Price $1250, paid over 2600.
Tags: pellet, stove, dirty, glass, pellet feed, hours running, this unit, about every, after hours, clean burning, clear window
HELP! I had a new furnace and AC unit installed spring last year. Both are Luxiare and were sold as fully compatable. Furnace works great. AC unit only starts intermittiantly. Many times it tries to start, turns for 5 seconds and stops. Does this over and over again. Other times, starts no problem (usually when its not that hot!). Service man replaced the circuit board (no change) and I replaced the thermostat (again no change to AC unit issues!). Service man said diagnosis is impossible unless the unit isn't working. Seems that whenever it stops and I call, by the time he arrives (next day!) it starts fine again! ANY THOUGHTS? Maybe a crimped line? HELP!
Surely you're not trying to run your A/C in Toronto this time of year! Even with a crankcase heater, a residential A/C compressor would have a hard time starting in a Canadian January. I'd simply leave the A/C off until next spring/summer, then if problems continue, call your tech, since it should still be under warranty.
in order to run the a/c in cold climates you need to have pressure controls and crank case heater. Are you trying to run in cold weather? If in warm weather, does the fan run and not the compressor?
Of course I am not running the ac in the winter. Just trying to get ahead of the game before it's needed in the spring. The tech seems good but keeps pointing to the electronics and I was wondering if MAYBE it was the piping he installed that's the issue!
you might try a hard start capacitor that connects across the run capacitors on your compressor to boost the initial start power, also make sure theres no bugs or debri in the contacts,Could be a bad start relay or start capacitor. Could be a bad run capacitor. Could be a bad wire on one of the compressor terminals. Could be a bad compressor but check the other items first.
Tags: unit, start, capacitor Could, start capacitor
I'm planning to finish a large room in my basement as a study area for my children. To make it feel brighter and to minimize visual distractions, I'm hoping to make extensive use of glass for shelves, doors and even a whiteboard. There is a lot of information available on the Web about making glass dry-erase boards, but I'm having a hard time finding anything on DIY floating glass shelves or doors. I can't begin to afford the commercially available products (e.g, http://floatingglassshelves.com or http://www.specialtydoors.com/specia...ass-doors.html). Does anyone have any sources of how-to information or any advice/experience to share about fabricating your own floating glass shelves or glass interior and closet doors (sliding or French-door style)? An alternative to floating shelves would be supporting them with narrow metal (or other complementary material) posts, I guess. Thanks for any advice or leads.
Have you looked for solutions in a big-box building store? Just a guess. Regardless, this idea won't be cheap to build because tempered glass is not cheap. You will definitely want to use tempered glass because its stronger and also safer in case it gets broken. Tempered glass is generally more expensive because its cut then refired. Any commercial product you buy should be made with tempered glass and I'd guess your glass will be more expensive because it will likely be a custom order from a glass company. What about something like this? http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30047893 or maybe look into some company that sells retail store fixtures. You might be able to get reasonably priced glass shelves from there as well. If you still decide to do it yourself, make sure to use some sort of adhesive caulk.
What you are looking at looks very expensive. You could use glass clamps that come in many configurations including hinges. The glass could be tempered but must be for doors. Using annealed 3/8 to 1/2 glass for shelves should be OK. Here are a couple of links: http://www.homedecorhardware.com/sug...-supports.html http://www.crlaurence.com/apps/sites...y=glass+clamps
Originally Posted by johnam What you are looking at looks very expensive. You could use glass clamps that come in many configurations including hinges. The glass could be tempered but must be for doors. Using annealed 3/8 to 1/2 glass for shelves should be OK. Here are a couple of links: http://www.homedecorhardware.com/sug...-supports.html http://www.crlaurence.com/apps/sites...y=glass+clamps Thanks for the links, johnam and dneves. The Ikea shelf would be just right except I need a deeper shelf (more like 10 or 12 rather than 4). The links to hardware were intriguing, but the retail store's prices were incredibly high (it's easy to find European online stores with prices a small fraction of those), and the other one only sells to the trade. Getting the tempered glass cheaply is not a problem. I was able to get 10x20 sheets on ebay for about $6.50 apiece, and later I even found a retail site that sells 12x24 sheets for under $5/apiece. It's the hardware that seems almost impossible to find in the USA -- or at least at reasonable cost. Looks like a market niche that has yet to be exploited by some enterprising company ...
Originally Posted by crcurrie It's the hardware that seems almost impossible to find in the USA -- or at least at reasonable cost. I purchased a couple of corner glass shelving units at Lowes (Real Organized Glass Corner Shelf Kit) and liked the hardware enough that I called customer service and ordered additional mounting hardware for my other glass shelving. As long as the style of the hardware and the satin nickel finish suits your needs, they're a great deal at around $3 apiece. In case you're interested, the customer service number is 1-800-444-6742 and you'll ask for the mounting hardware for Item #089679.
Tags: make, glass, doors, floating, shelves, glass clamps, glass shelves, tempered glass, almost impossible, almost impossible find, almost impossible find least, almost impossible find least reasonable, annealed glass, annealed glass shelves
Hello All, Thanks in advance for any input. I have a Genie Intellicode H6000a 1/2 hp Screw drive garage door opener. The opener worked fine for 4-5 years, then a few weeks ago it started going up only 3 inches or so and stop. I called Genie (great customer service) and they walked me through some tests, like opening the door by hand, which is no problem, so I guess that ruled out the spring. They thought it was the motor head and sent me a replacement but it still does the same thing. It's hard for me to call Genie during the day as I work 10+ hours a day so and by the time I get home they are closed. So I thought I would find a place to see if anyone else out there can help, hoping this is the place. I did some googling and replaced the safe t beam photo sensors, I checked the trolley it is fine. Interestingly if I hold the wall console button down it will go up 90% and stop, but getting it to go down requires multiple pushes of the button. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, this thing is driving me nuts. Thanks
what happens when you push the OP button without the door engaged? have you tried removing the J-arm from the trolley and door, engaging the trolley to the OP rail and seeing if it cycles without the door attached?
You probably need to turn the open force control adjustment clockwise. From a random Genie owner's manual: Set the OPEN force level at the minimum force required to open door without stopping.
Darren, When I try to open without the trolley engaged the motor spins for a few seconds and stops and spins again for a few seconds. It sounds like it spins in one direction stops the spins in another direction. When the J arm and door are disconnected and the trolley is engaged the trolley moves back a few inches and stops. Larry, I have tried adjusting the open force knob to no avail. Thanks for both of your help, now where do we go from here?
I've experienced a similar problem on a Liftmaster operator. I discovered that the motor speed sensor was not fully engaged on the motor shaft. I don't know if that info is helpful on a Genie operator or not, but it may be worth checking. I just checked a Genie owner's manual and they call it the Opto Wheel. Just check to make sure that it is properly installed and that the sensor assembly is 'seeing' the wheel.
Dust and cobwebs can mess with the wheel sensor as well.
You can hold the wall button down and it will operate. My experience when this happens is that there is something wrong with the electronic eye sensors. I know you changed them, but really inspect the wiring to make sure there is not a break anywhere. It is the sensors telling the door there is an obstruction and to reverse as a safety feature.
Lone Star, I believe the opti wheel is seated correctly, it spins freely when the screw is disengaged and spins when the open button is pushed when the screw is engaged. Iam not sure check to see if the sensor is seeing the wheel? Czizzi, To test the wiring I pulled the 2 STB sensors off of the wall and placed them 10 inches away from each other and screwed them to a 2x4, I then ran new wiring from the sensors to the power head, and pulled the wall console off and ran new wire to it and then to the power head, the same thing happens when trying to open the door. Door opens only 3 inches and stops. So, the wiring is indeed good. This is frustrating. I installed the opener to begin with about 4-5 years ago, and I have loved it ever since, but boy once you don't have it, makes you realize how much you miss it. Any other suggestions?
The repair I mentioned, the homeowner actually pinched the wire running an electrical extension cord past his garage door for Christmas Lights. The wire is only a single strand bell wire and broke. I think he had tried to get new sensors to work as well. I found the broken wire and re-attached everything to the original sensors and all worked fine. Its possible that the replacement sensors are not compatible with your opener.
Czizzi, I forgot to mention that I tried both the old original sensors that I thought were bad in my mock up last night to test wiring as well as the new sensors I purchased. Both sensors exhibited the exact the same issue. I am on the fence about calling a local construction company to come out and look at it for me, they want $160.00 just to look at it. Its hard to justify that cost given that the entire unit was purchased for $250.00 at Home Depot. I think I am going to try and spend my lunch hour calling Genie today. (If I get a lunch hour). If you think of anything else let me know. I appreciate your help and input. If I do get to talk to Genie I will let you know what they say. . Thanks Again.
What kind of up and down limit switches do you have? Lever or magnetic style? Make sure they are working correctly...
I just spoke with Genie Tech Support, they pushed me to a Level 2 technician and after some checking we found that the opto wheel had a broken plastic piece on the shaft connection point on the replacement power head they sent me that I could not see at first. She had me pull the opto wheel from the original power head and try that, but she suspected that the opto wheel sensor was damaged from the damaged opto wheel. They are going to send me another power head and see if that fixes it. I will post back next week to let you know if it resolved the issue. Gun Guy, The limit switches are contact closure style switches. One sits in the front and one sits on the back of the rail. I cleaned them with a cloth, but that's as far as I got with the limit switches.
You don't by chance have an extension kit attached to this unit do you? I had issues on one that had the extension kit and I now remember it did the same/similar thing. What I found out is that all sections of the rail need to be in perfect alignment. If one section has screws that have worked themselves loose, then the unit binds as it tries to move. If you sit there and continually try to monkey with it, it strips the gear/opto wheel which is only made of plastic. Check for loose nuts along the rail, make sure it is perfectly flat, and test without the door attached to see if you can get it to move with just the carriage prior to pulling the weight of the door.
Tags: genie, intellicode, h6000a, opens, inches, stops, power head, limit switches, make sure, opto wheel, without door
Can anyone give me any suggestions on how I can go about putting some kind of curtains or blinds on these windows? We need them for basically two reasons, one because the heat generated by really warms the bathroom up as the afternoon sun hits the glass, and secondly for basic privacy – who ever thought of putting big panoramic windows on a master bathroom like this was nuts – at least without providing some kind of way to get some privacy! The problem of course is the sharp angle at the top of the three windows, which prevents a normal blind or curtain rod being installed. One last point – the windows aren’t as weird as they look – I took three shots to get the whole room in, and the merging process skewered the vertical lines. We also have a couple of angled skylights that also let in a lot of unwanted heat and sunlight during the middle of the day - any thoughts on shade these as well? Thanks
A good blind store...one that specializes in blinds only, can fit those odd windows. They will only be able to cover from the bottom of the angle down with movable ones, but that's enough to have privace, IMO. Same thing on the skylights. Why someone would punch a hole in a perfectly otherwise non leaking roof IN FLORIDA to let the sun torment you is beyond belief. You got light bulbs, right?? So you don't really need the skylights. They can manufacture movable shades that would look a little better than the tapestry that is there now . merging process skewered the vertical lines Thank you. I thought my coffee hadn't kicked in good !
For angled windows, custom will be the only way, whether hard blinds or fabric shades. There's nothing readymade for this. There are online sources, but if you measure wrong, you won't be able to return them. Be prepared for sticker shock! Same thing for the skylight, especially if it's also angled. Consider motorized for all these shades, since the windows are so large and high. Curtains wouldn't work well because they'll want to open up on account of the angle, and they'd still have to be custom or they'd be lopsided.
Ah see, but there's the problem as far as those bathroom windows are concerned. Conventionally, I thought the only thing that could be done was to ignore the sharp angles at the top and lay something horizontally across each of the windows. But I just keep getting back to the fact I think it will look really awful doing it and that I need to to try and tailor something to the shape of the glass - which of course complicates it! The other thing, which of course would require more money, would be to perhaps stick some kind of vertical shading outside, some kind of louvered windows, that could be electronically controlled from inside. As I said, whoever chose to do this kind of design for a bathroom was a moron - there's a nature strip behind the house, but who wants to rely on that for privacy? All it would take for some pervert to get an eyeful of anyone would be to go for a hike through the vegetation.
The only other thing I can think of, is to have them tinted. Not as good as some sort of cover, but should help somewhat, and will be cheaper. Here's some privacy/decorative window film you can get at Lowes There's also companies, like 3M, that will come out and do it for you.
For the bathroom, you could install some slatted bifold thingys. I can't think of what they are called, Becky. They would only go up 24 or so, but could afford some privacy. This would not help with the heat, however. Tinting is a good idea.
Louvered Shutters, I think. I wonder if there's enough room to mount them tho. Can't tell for sure from the pics.
Okay, I think I've come up with a solution. I'm going to break up the lines of the windows by placing a horizontal frame (purely cosmetic) across each of the three windows, approximately at the height on the top right hand corner on the right window. That way it will give the windows a more natural looking line for putting blinds in place, and they'll be at a height that should give complete privacy while still letting in a substantial amount of light from the exposed sections above. Of course, I'll have to match the new interior woodwork with matching pieces outside, but that's no big deal.
I think that would be a great idea, serving both purposes of keeping the enormous amount of light out while giving the privacy you need. Never have understood why designers chose to put picture windows directly over tubs....at tub level.
Maybe they're voyeurs at heart?
As far as I know, they design the house from an outside point of view first, along with windows and placement. Then when it's all said and done, well, oops, oh well, not our problem!
Tags: curtains, blinds, windows, some kind, some privacy, across each, amount light, merging process, merging process skewered, merging process skewered vertical, merging process skewered vertical lines, other thing, process skewered, process skewered vertical
My Bosch Washing machine suddenly began giving an error Code of E-17 when it is started. The last use worked fine the day before. No water comes in and the drain hose pulses as if it is trying to drain. I have cleaned the screens in both water supply lines, but the code continues to appear on starting no matter what cycle is used. This is a model WFVC6450UC/20. Any suggestions?
E17 error code - FixYa Just googled your code and came up with this hope it helps.
Thank you very much. The repair worked just as the FixYa said it would. It was a little difficult getting into the area where the micro switch and water was located, but when I got it all cleaned out, the machine worked again. As the FixYa message indicated, I also don't see any indication of a leak that would have let the water accumulate in the bottom. I left the access panel off and watched a full cycle with no indication of any leaks. Anyway, thanks again. You guys at Do It Yourself continue to provide a wonderful service for me.
Cleaning out the water did get rid of the E-17 code, but after observing a few cycles, it appears there might be a slight leak somewhere. Are there any manuals available where I can see get into the top or back of the washer? I think it might be one of the plastic connectors where the water hoses screw on, but I don't see readily gain access.
Don't know about manuals but most Bosch have a couple of screws in back top. Take screws out and top slides back. Some have small plastic plugs in front control panel area that come out and there are screws under them. Plugs are about a dime size.
That was easy to get the top off with your guidance. I did find the dual inlet water valve leaking under one of the soleniods. I have ordered the replacement and hopefully all will be repaired in about a week. Thanks again for your help.
I'm helping a friend get her snow-blower ready (for once, she's thinking ahead). She indicated that it was tuned up last winter, but by the final snow-fall it wouldn't start at all. Any way, I was finally able to get it started, but it seems to have a fueling issue. I had to keep partialling choking it down to keep it running, even once fully warm. There seems to be just one adjustment screw, coming in at a 90-degree angle, and I did play around with it some. I can't however seem to find a setting where the motor feels happy at all throttle settings. Is there anything else that can/should be adjusted? What's the proper way to adjust it in the first place? Lastly, this adjustment screw does seem too loose, and I bet it will go out of adjustment on it's own regardless. Is this common? Maybe some mild threadlocker is called for? I'll work on getting some more info on the motor ID, but it's about 8-10 years old and an up-draft type of setup. Thanks, Brad
If it was running OK after the tune up, I'm guessing it has water,dirt,rust or all of the above it the tank and carb. Remove float bowl on carb and see what it has in it besides gas. If dirty the tank will need cleaning also. If it has varnish in it, the carb will have to be cleaned thoroughly w/ carb cleaner. Look in the nut that holds the float bowl and locate two very small holes in it. Use a very fine wire such as used for parts tags to clean the holes. Hope this helps, Mike PS: If this is more than you want to tackle, I'd advise taking it to a small engine shop now before winter sets in.
Thanks for the feedback Mike. I've rebuilt a couple car motors, so while this stuff is sorta unknown territory, I'm sure I can handle it. Any input on that single adjustment screw? I was pretty much flying blind there, so some guidance on a good initial set-point would be helpful. Thanks again,
Sorry, Brad, I spaced that out. I have an MTD blower about the same age w/ 8 HP Tecumseh. That is the idle mixture screw. As you probably already know, it only has any effect at idle.Lightly screw it in until seated, then back out 1 1/2 turns.This should give you a start point for setting idle mix. As for being loose, sometimes a ballpoint pen spring will work. Just have to shorten the spring so needle screw can seat. If not,go to small engine shop and see if they have an old carb w/ spring behind screw.Sounds like you know what you're doing so I'm confident you can have this ready for winter. Lots of luck and feel free to keep asking for info, Mike
Here is a service manual that should cover your engine. http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
Thanks guys - all good info. I'll see what sort of additional progress I can make now.
If you see no adjustment screw on the bottom of the bowl, then you have no fuel adjustment screws, period. In other words, if you have a fixed high speed carb then the idle circuit, too, is fixed. The screw you have adjusted, is this chrome in color or brass in color? If chrome, it likely is the idle speed screw and has no effect on performance, it merely increases or decreased the engines' RPM at idle. If brass, this is a fixed speed jet and must be bottomed out completely in order to be at all effective. I'd say you have a fixed jet carb and you will need to remove the carb, soak it and recondition it with a Tecumseh kit and new mounting gasket(s).
Figured I'd bring this thread back around. We never did really get this working well last year, but it was a light Winter, so dodged that bullet. I did do a thorough cleaning of the carb, including the fine hole, but no real improvement. I do recall determining that this is an early emissions carb, and they tend to be finicky. I'm inclined to take a big whack at it and just replace the entire carb with a new/rebuilt one that's less picky - an earlier one perhaps. Thoughts, suggestions???
When you were cleaning the holes in the main jet did you clean the tiny hole that is about midway up the stem, I usually use the wire from a twist tie and then blow it out with brake parts cleaner. Have a good one. Geo
Originally Posted by geogrubb When you were cleaning the holes in the main jet did you clean the tiny hole that is about midway up the stem, I usually use the wire from a twist tie and then blow it out with brake parts cleaner. Have a good one. Geo It's been awhile now, but I think that's what I attempted to do last year. Given my lack of success, I'm not much in the mood for trying again, so I think I'll just order up a new carb. Is the 632334A the only option? Is that one an exact duplicate of the original, or is it adjustable, and thus capable of giving me some latitude that the original one couldn't?
Sorry, didn't realize the thread was over a year old, I retract my suggestion and suggest getting a girl friend that has a better snow blower. Have a good one. Geo
I think you'd be ahead, as you suspected, to just replace the carb and not have to worry with it anymore. I'm not familiar with snowblower engines, but in my experience, most tecumseh carbs are interchangeable as far as bolt pattern within their horsepower range. Some may differ as far as breather hose and fuel line attatchments. You might post your engine info to get more specific information.
Originally Posted by cheese You might post your engine info to get more specific information. Engine is a 8HP model# HMSK80-1554445
Originally Posted by DPDISXR4Ti Engine is a 8HP model# HMSK80-1554445 I have the exact same engine on my snowblower. It is an emission carb with absolutely NO adjustments. I would take the carb off, take it apart soak it overnite in carb cleaner and put a kit in it (about $12). The kit is a needle seat float bowl o-ring gasket. When you take the float out, shake it next to your ear. If you hear a sloshing, you will need to replace the float, too as it has gas in it. This seems to be a common problem with Tecumseh floats. If you did not put gas stabilizer in it, you are going to find varnish inside. Today's gas is only good for about 6 weeks before it starts going bad. Also, drain the gas from the tank. I drain it into an old clean clear 2 liter soda bottle and let it set for a few minutes. This way you can see any water on the bottom of the bottle. I recomend using Isyoprople drygas at 1oz. per gallon.
Tags: tecumseh, carb, snow, blower, adjustment screw, float bowl, Have good, Originally Posted, will need, your engine, about midway, about midway stem
Cushing's syndrome in humans, also called human Cushing's disease, is caused by long-term exposure to glucocorticoids, or cortisol, in the body. Most often, this is from overuse of therapeutic cortisol steroid creams and steroid medications like prednisol. Other times, it can be from a adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH) secreting tumor on the pituitary gland or adrenal gland that tells the body to make more cortisol. The prognosis for Cushing's disease patients is good, with treatment that usually involves the removal of the tumor or cortisol-secreting gland or hormone therapy.
Symptoms
Most people with Cushing's tend to have upper-body obesity, a rounded face, a lot of fat around the neck area and thin arms and legs. Children with Cushing's disease tend to be obese with a slowed growth rate. The skin of a Cushing's disease patient is often thin and fragile, bruising easily and healing poorly. Bright red or purple stretchmarks, called striations, may appear on the lower part of the belly and the armpits, thighs, breasts and buttocks. Bones are weakened, and even small activities like bending or standing can cause backaches or even bone fractures. Severe fatigue, weak muscles,high blood sugar and high blood pressure as well as irritability, depression and anxiety are also common. Cushing's disease occurs most frequently in women of childbearing age. In addition to the other symptoms, women may also experience excessive hair growth from their face down to their thighs. Menstrual periods may become irregular or even stop altogether. Men who suffer from Cushing's disease may experience a decreased libido. Additionally, their sperm count may go down, resulting in infertility.
Treatments
The treatment for Cushing's disease will be different for many patients, depending on the root cause of their disease--mainly, why the patient's body has been subjected to excessive amounts of the hormone cortisol. If there's a tumor at work, then removing it may be all that's necessary. If the tumor is cancerous, which does occur, especially with lung cancer, then radiation or chemotherapy might be necessary. If it's due to overuse of steroids or hormone medications, then prescription medication may be in order to counteract the effects. If the patient is using steroids to treat another disease, then doctors may experiment with the dosage to find the healthiest balance.
Diagnostic Tests
Before Cushing's disease can be treated, doctors must find out the cause. By injecting the patient with CRH, doctors can monitor their body's chemical response with timed blood tests to check the levels of reactive cortisol in the blood. Certain parameters have been established for tumors lying outside of the glands and on the glands. Imaging tests are also used to pinpoint the specific location of tumors before surgery. A 24-hour collection of several urine specimens can help doctors figure out where the cortisol is coming from, too. Finally, a sampling of the sinus tissue, taken through the nose, is also telling. Once the doctor finds out why the body is excreting extra cortisol, she can make a treatment plan.
Surgery
Generally, surgery to remove the tumor is the most important part of curing Cushing's disease. Sometimes, patients will be premedicated with suppressive hormones, and other times, doctors will simply operate to remove the tumor. Because the pituitary and adrenal glands are easily accessible via the nasal cavity, surgeons prefer to use a camera-guided technique that's incision-free and can allow patients to recover faster.
Chemotherapy and Radiation
Where the root cause of Cushing's is cancerous, doctors may use spot irradiation, radiation or chemotherapy to destroy the cancerous cells and keep them from relocating to another part of the body. Chemotherapy is a combination of radiation and medication and has a long list of side effects; doctors generally use it as a last resort.
Suppressive Medications
Sometimes, suppressive prescription medications can be used to prevent the body's release of excess cortisol. This solution works for patients who aren't candidates for surgery, like the immune-suppressed and the elderly.
Cushing's Syndrome is caused by an overproduction of cortisol in the body. This condition can be caused by tumors growing on the pituitary gland.
Significance
Cushing's Syndrome is caused by pituitary tumors. Roughly 70 percent of Cushing's Syndrome cases are eventually diagnosed as Cushing's Disease.
Identification
People suffering from Cushing's Syndrome often have a bloated abdomen with thin arms and legs. They may suffer from headaches, depression, acne, unexplained weight gain, and excessive facial hair in females among other symptoms.
Effects
The symptoms of Cushing's Syndrome are not directly caused by the pituitary tumors. Rather the symptoms are an effect of too much cortisol in the body, which can damage tissue over time.
Treatment
Cushing's Disease is treated by surgical removal of the pituitary tumors. This surgery has a success rate of 80 percent and can be repeated if the initial attempt is unsuccessful.
Warning
Cushing's Disease can cause death, if left untreated. Those suffering with symptoms of this disease should see their doctor to determine the cause and begin proper treatment.
Water pick systems suction water out of a cup or container of water. It pushes the water through to the pick. The pick allows you to aim water at high pressure speeds directly in between your teeth. This allows you to release food and bacteria from your teeth that would normally remain for days. While water picking does not replace the need to floss, it's a beneficial tool to maintain optimal dental hygiene. In addition, using a water pick regularly strengthens your gums and helps prevent cavities.
Instructions
1. Fill the water pick console with water. The water pick console has a bucket that the pick suctions water from. Fill the console up to the top with water. It may seem like a lot to fill up, but you'll be surprised to see that it will all be used because of how fast the water suctions through the pick. Also, if you'd like, you can add about half a cap full of mouth wash to the water. This will help keep fresh breath longer.
2. Set the water picks pressure speed. Most commonly, water picks come in pressure speeds of levels 1 to 5. If you have never used a water pick before, start at the lowest setting. The higher the setting, the stronger the pressure of the pick. That, in turn, cleans in between your teeth and gums better. Start with the lowest level; move up a level every couple of weeks. If you see a little bit of gum bleeding, it's okay. That just means you need to move along levels more slowly.
3. Turn on the water pick console. To do this, hold the water pick in your hand. Place the pick face down into the sink. Once you turn on the console, water will immediately suction out of the pick. Before you start, you must position yourself so that you can hover your mouth over the sink. The water speed is high. If you don't position yourself in a way that the water can just fall right out of your mouth and into the sink, you may have a mess on your hands.
4. Water pick your teeth. To do this, place the tip of the pick between the ridges of your teeth near your gums. To do this, place your head down to the sink. Leave your mouth open the entire time so that the water can just flow right out of your mouth. Let the pick suction water in between your teeth and gums to loosen up and release food particles and bacteria. Continue until you have picked between each tooth.
5. Follow up using the pick every other day. While you're working your way up to level five, it is very important to give your gums a break to heal every other day. Continue using the water pick until you reach level five. That's when you can then use the pick everyday or as needed.
The two spade shaped rocker box covers gave this model the nickname shovelhead.
Leaking rocker box gaskets were a particular problem with Harley Evolution engines. Harley went through four generations of lower rocker covers and four versions of the middle cover, or D-Ring, as the motor company tried to solve the problem. The earliest gaskets, from 1984 to 1987, were made of cork. The next versions, which lasted until 1990, were made of zinc and leaked the most. Subsequent versions were rubber. Removing rocker box covers to replace the gaskets is a straightforward process. Very experienced mechanics can do the job without removing the gas tank but less experienced mechanics should probably begin this job by remove the tank.
Instructions
1. Close the petcock. Ensure the motorcycle is cold.
2. Remove the seat bolt and washer from the tab on the rear of your seat. Remove the seat to access the battery. Loosen the negative battery cable from the terminal with a box wrench and remove the cable from the battery.
3. Remove the center console. Typically, the center console is attached to the center console bracket with three Allen head screws.
4. Remove the fuel line from the petcock. Typically the petcock and fuel supply are joined by a hose clamp. Loosen the hose clamp with a flat head screwdrivers.
5. Drain the gasoline in your tank into an adequately sized, sealable, gas can. On models with dual gas caps, disconnect the crossover and fuel venting hoses in the front, middle bottom of the tank.
6. Remove the front mounting bolt, flat washers and acorn nut with a box wrench and socket wrench. Remove the rear mounting bolt, flat washers and acorn nut.
7. Disconnect the fuel gauge connector on recent models. The fuel gauge connector is under the left side of the fuel tank.
8. Remove the gas tank from the motorcycle. Set the tank on a flat stable surface in a well vented place.
9. Remove the six Allen bolts and washers that connect the rocker cover to the rocker assembly. Begin with the front rocker box and work on one cylinder at a time.
10. Remove the metal D-ring if your motorcycle is equipped with an Evolution engine. Note the top, bottom and orientation of the D-ring. Completely remove the old gasket. Use a gasket scraper if necessary.
11. Examine your rocker arm housing. Rocker arm housings with only a partial inner lip require you to use an adhesive like high temperature rubber cement to properly install the new gasket. Rocker arm housings with a full inner lip do not require adhesive.
12. Apply adhesive if needed and properly place the gasket on the rocker arm. Replace the D-Ring on Evolution engines. Replace the rocker arm cover.
13. Tighten the Allen bolts in a cross pattern to 10 to 12 foot pounds of torque. Refer to the shop manual for your motorcycle and use the exact torque sequence and specifications described there.
14. Re-bolt the gas tank to your motorcycle. Reconnect the fuel gauge connector. Reinstall the fuel line to the petcock.
15. Reinstall the center console. Refuel the motorcycle.
16. Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery. Reinstall the seat.
Removing the clutch cable from your motorcycle, either for replacement or maintenance reasons, is a straightforward process. Although there are minor differences in location or arrangement between the multitudes of motorcycles, the basic concept is the same. You will need a small collection of hand tools, including a set of screwdrivers, combination wrenches, a socket wrench, and a set of sockets (metric or standard SAE, depending on the make and model of your motorcycle).
Instructions
1. Locate the cable adjustment nut at the center of the cable and tighten it completely. This will increase the cable slack at the clutch lever.
2. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch lever cable adjuster and tighten the cable adjuster until it is seated against the clutch lever perch. Align the cable groove in the adjuster with the cable groove on the perch. Loosen the adjuster slightly, if needed.
3. Remove the cable end barrel from the clutch lever and pull the cable through the cable grooves on the perch and adjuster. Then slide the clutch cable through the front fork's cable clamps.
4. Access the cable adjuster on the motor. Depending on the model of your motorcycle, the adjuster may be hidden behind a plate or cover. If needed, remove the cover to gain access to the adjuster.
5. Loosen the lock nut on the engine side adjuster and twist the adjuster counter-clockwise until the adjuster is completely unscrewed from the clutch release. Pull the exposed inner cable through the groove on the clutch release and pull the end barrel from the clutch release's catch.
6. Remove any brackets or clamps that may be securing the clutch cable to the motorcycle's frame and pull the cable free.
Tips Warnings
Refer to the service manual specific to your motorcycle for complete dis-assembly and installation information.
Take your time. Rushing the installation can create more problems.
If you are uncomfortable performing this task, or lack the necessary tools, have the work done by a qualified technician.
Giving faux leather a weathered and worn look can make it appear more authentic.
Faux leather is a general term used to refer to several different types of artificial leather. Early versions of faux leather only slightly imitated the look and feel of real leather. Modern faux leather can be made to be virtually identical to real leather in every way depending on the quality. For even more authentic-looking fabric, distressing the material can give it a realistic, worn and weathered look.
Instructions
1. Form folds and creases in the material. Worn leather can accumulate deep creases through repeated usage. Replicate this repeated usage by bending and folding the material roughly. Ball it up when not being worn and keep it in a drawer or other confined space. A few creases in the faux leather will give it the look of well worn real leather.
2. Create wear spots on the material. Look for spots on the material that would naturally get rubbed against often such as the elbows in shirts, knees in pants or toes in shoes. Try to find existing wear spots that may be already have begun forming as this will give you a very natural and realistic look. Lightly rub the desired locations with different grades of sandpaper or steel wool.
3. Fabricate heavier areas of distress if desired. Leather garments tend to wear out around edges, such as on sleeves of a jacket or the cuffs of pants. Use a wire brush (the same kind you'd use to prep a wall for painting) while pulling the material taute to create areas with more severe wearing.
4. Expose the faux leather to dirt and dust if a more outdoorsy look is desired. Take the item outside and roll it around in the dirt. Mud may make the material too dirty so you might want to avoid it. A little dust can make the faux leather appear less synthetic and give it a realistic and earthy look.
5. Use the item constantly. If the faux leather is an item of clothing, wear it as often as possible. The most realistic wear and tear comes naturally. In addition to creating artificial wear spots and creases, you can speed natural process along just by using the item constantly. Being rough to the faux leather while wearing it, such as rubbing it up against trees and concrete walls, will give the material a worn look too.
Tips Warnings
Start small and work your way up to the desired effect. The durability of the faux leather will depend on the quality of the material. While some types of faux leather have the same durability of real leather, cheaper versions may tear easily. Be gentle on the material at first until you see how well the faux takes the distressing. Be subtle -- small touches can often be more convincing then large drastic changes.
Coupons are a great way to save money on Waterpik products. Coupons for Waterpik accessories are quick and easy to find, and the time spent finding and printing them is well worth the effort. Here's get a coupon for discounts on Waterpik products.
Instructions
1. Check the manufacturer's website. Many manufacturers offer coupons on their websites, and Waterpik is no exception. The coupons and special offers on the site change regularly, so be sure to check back often. Print a few extra copies of a coupon you think you might use over again.
2. Search coupon aggregator sites. There are hundreds of sites that offer coupons and coupon codes. Two popular sites are CoolSavings and RetailMeNot. Look for links to these sites in the Additional Resources section. CoolSavings is geared more toward printable coupons for use in stores, and RetailMeNot focuses more on coupon codes that can be used to get discounts on online purchases.
3. Join a coupon exchange club. If you have coupons for other products that you don't plan on using, you can often exchange them for Waterpik coupons. Again, there are numerous coupon exchange clubs online. CouponForum is one good site to look for Waterpik coupons to trade for. Find the link in the Additional Resources section.
4. Write or call Waterpik. Many manufacturers gladly send out coupons upon request. If you have tried the previous steps and still haven't found a coupon for discounts on Waterpik products, try calling or writing Waterpik and asking for a coupon for the product that you plan to buy. This method may take a little longer but could result in significant savings.
Tips Warnings
If you're purchasing online, don't forget to also search for promotional codes for the website you are purchasing from. For example, sites like Drugstore.com often offer their own discounts that can be used in combination with manufacturer coupons to save even more money.
Always double-check expiration dates. It does no good to spend time searching for coupons only to get to the store and find out they are no good.
One of the most discouraging things about cooking is making an incredible meal, then being left with a scorched pot or pan to clean up afterward. Even nonstick pans require proper attention to clean scorched food without ruining the pan. In most cases, a scorched pot can be cleaned with a simple process.
Instructions
1. Let the pot cool down. It is beneficial if the pot is still a bit warm. Sprinkle baking soda liberally on the scorched pan bottom. Coat all the areas with blackened food. You can shake the pan a bit to get better coverage.
2. Squirt liquid dish soap onto the baking soda. Don't overdo it--just 1 or 2 tsp. spread out as much as possible.
3. Add enough warm water to cover the bottom of the pot. You can add an inch or so if you like, just don't dilute the baking soda and dish soap too much.
4. Let the pan sit for an hour or two.
5. Drain off most of the water. Scrub the pan gently with a soft, nonabrasive cloth. Work the mixture around gently. The action of the baking soda and detergent should make most of the scorched mess come off easily.
6. Repeat the process if necessary. When the scorched matter has been removed as much as possible, you can wash the pan as you normally would.
Sewing machines need yearly maintenance such as oiling and cleaning to keep working smoothly. Sometimes, the working interior parts need can break and need fixing. Learning do sewing machine repairs can save time and money. Becoming a sewing machine repair person can also be a lucrative career. There are several ways to go about learning the skills necessary to be successful.
Instructions
Types of Training
1. Purchase or borrow the necessary tools to complete repairs. There are several ways to learn the skills necessary to repair sewing machines. Read about and research each of the methods below to decide which option is right for you.
2. Find a sewing machine shop in your area. Talk with their repair person to see how he learned his skills. Ask about the possibility of on-the-job training or working with him as an apprentice. This will probably not be paid, but it will likely not cost you any money either.
3. Conduct an Internet search to find hands-on workshops in your area. White Sewing Center offers three-hour seminars for owner maintenance and three-day seminars for thorough training. Prices for these workshops begin around $50.
4. Teach yourself repair sewing machines at home by reading books or watching DVDs on the subject. This an effective and inexpensive way to learn repair sewing machines. Read reviews to determine what book or DVD is best for your needs; www.repairsewingmachine.com offers several books for varying skill levels and machines. DVD training series that correspond with books will add visual reference.
5. Ask your local fabric and hobby stores if you can put up fliers once you have learned and mastered the skills necessary to repair sewing machines. Online classifieds that allow you to advertise for free.
Tips Warnings
Learning any new skill will require time and patience. Be sure to review any of the above methods before starting the process.
Sewing machines are heavy-duty equipment. If used improperly, they can cause injury. Read all warnings and instructions prior to use.
Investing in the stock market is not only a career for many, it is a life-long hobby for many more. Nowadays, more than ever, taking control of one's own finances is extremely important. Some people find it exciting, rewarding and just simply fun following the stock market. Here are some gift ideas sure to reward those interested in the stock market.
Newspaper Subscriptions
A gift subscription to the Wall Street Journal, Barron's or the New York Times will be greatly appreciated by stock market followers. Up-to-date news, stock market quotes, advice and feature stories are not only helpful but also interesting.
Magazine
A weekly or monthly business magazine will bring a smile and a nod of acceptance. Business Week, Forbes, Money, Kiplinger's The Bottom Line, Time and Newsweek all offer suggestions, ideas, caution and newsworthy mention of worldly events.
A Share of Stock
You can purchase a single share or multiple shares of stock for a gift. Favorites include Hershey's Corp., McDonald's, Disney, Harley Davidson and Coca-Cola. You can even request a certificate and frame it for the recipient.
The Stock Market Board Game
Trade stock with the roll of the dice. Learn to make or lose fortunes without risking any real money. Find out what a stockholder meeting is like and what a CEO must endure.
Desk Accesories and Art Work
Bull and bear bookends, paperweights, neckties, T-shirts, business card holders and letter openers make excellent gifts for a stock market guru. A framed old stock certificate or replica ticker tape are other ideas.
Wireless Stock Tracker
The wireless stock market tracker delivers updated information on the major markets with alerts daily (15 minute delay). This easy-to-use, compact and clear instrument also provides the date and time. No subscription needed, just batteries.
According to the Bichon Frise Club of America, as many as 50 percent of all bichons will have at least one episode of skin problems during their lifetimes. These small dogs are wonderful companions and typically fairly hardy, but they are known to be a high-maintenance breed. Knowing more about the skin problems that are common to bichon frises can help you to best take care of your dog.
Features
Skin problems can be identified through a number of features. The beginning of a skin problem in a bichon frise can be indicated by scratching, frequent licking and hair loss. The dog also may chew on its fur and skin, and rub its body against furniture. Problems that are more advanced might appear in the form of skin lesions, hot spots, rashes and blisters.
Considerations
The bichon frise breed is known to be prone to allergies. A bichon frise may be allergic to dust, pollen, smoke, mold or certain food ingredients. Allergies in the breed are inherited from one or both parents, and it is important to avoid breeding bichon frises that are known to have allergies.
Causes
There are many factors that might produce skin issues in bichon frises. The breed is white, and the lack of pigmentation leads to the skin being less protected from sun exposure, which can lead to dry skin. Similarly, skin issues also may be caused by thyroid disorders, parasitic infection, bacterial infections, allergies or autoimmune diseases. Yeast infection or an exposure to harmful chemicals also can result in skin problems in this breed.
Prevention
Feeding a bichon frise a high-quality diet can prevent food allergies from developing or worsening. A good diet also can help strengthen the dog's skin and immune system, making it more resistant to disease. When you purchase a bichon frise from a breeder, make sure that there is no incidence of allergies or skin problems in the parents.
Treatment
Treatment of skin problems in bichon frises is tailored to the cause. Steroids can be used to take down swelling, and anti-anxiety medications may be used to curtail learned, repetitive behaviors, such as biting at the skin. Antibiotics are prescribed in the case of an advanced skin infection.
I am in the process of getting a new house contracted. The builder installs a Trane 12 SEER unit by default but I would like to get the XL19i instead. The house is going to be a single story 2300 sq ft home with 4 bedrooms, living room + game room. It will have 16 or so windows. I live in the Dallas/Fort Worth area in Texas. I don't know what size unit they are putting in based on the above, however the price they want to charge for the upgrade seems excessive. We're talking about $4000! Is there anyone who can honestly estimate what a fair price of such an upgrade would be? I just don't want to be taken by the contractor on this big ticket item, but I sure don't want a 12 SEER rated unit in a house that won't be complete until March 2006. One more question: If Trane offers some kind of rebate on this unit, who gets the rebate? The builder or me? How can I negotiate for it? Thanks in advance! Edit: I managed to find a local website that actually listed list prices of these Trane units and it seems like the price difference between the 12 SEER and the XL19i is about $2100-$2500 depending on tonnage. That leaves me with at least $2500 that is unexplained. I called the builder's contractor and tracked down the guy who actually does all the designs for my builder. He said the upgrade to the SX19i would also include upgraded ducts from R-6 to R-8 (return would still be R-6) and he'd install the 7 day programmable touch screen unit as well. But even that does not seem to add up to the $1500 difference. Could anyone estimate how much does it really cost to add R-8 ducts and that controller to the bid? I am going to offer $3k to my builder for the setup, not a penny more.
well i can tell you this much what you see on a web page is going to be cheaper most time intill you add the shipping charge to get it to were you live.as far as rebate goes you should get that not the company id call train the main company and let them know what there doing with rebate. and if not too late id get 2 more companys to come in and give you a price as well.
To tell you the truth the website I have priced the unit from is actually a local company and included installation cost as well (www.buytrane.com) The prices on their website are list prices so my guess is that my builder gets it at a significant discount compared to those prices. As for the rebate I can't get the rebate, Trane rebate is only for unit replacement not new installation (which sounds kind of unfair if you ask me) but the contractor said that he would add in a 10 year parts and labor warranty if I got a XL19i unit.
GTakacs This is interesting question. I see nothing wrong with you handling the HVAC for your new home as long as you know you will be assuming all responsibility and your builder has no problems with this. You don't want to have a bad relationship with your builder. I agree that $4k sounds high on the upgrade. If you decide to pursue this yourself, ask the builder to provide you a set of the house plans including ductwork design. You can put this out for bids as long as time is available. I don't believe Trane offers the rebate to a homeowner on new construction but you can check on this directly with Trane, a Trane dealer, or the residential Trane distributor for your area. The upgrade on insulating ductwork from R-6 to R-8 really would be inconsequential. The upgrade from a standard digital heat pump thermostat to the 7 day programmable-most probably the XT500c would be more expensive. Both should not be more than $500-$600. I have a different take on your equipment choice. I assume a 4 ton unit has been recommneded based on a Manual J heat/cool load calculation. While I like Trane products(I have new dual fuel system with HE heat pump with gas furnace backup), you should be aware of the expectations in SEER and HSPF for a large tonnage unit. I would look at the XL16i over the 19i because the SEER and HSPF are very close and you will never achieve any payback by going to the 19i. The XL16i should be around $1000 less expensive. Take a look at the website below for comparison purposes. You will be surprised. http://www.ceehvacdirectory.org/hp.php My opinion. Good LucK!
TigerDunes Thanks for your response! My builder is not a custom builder entirely, they will not let you work with subs directly as far as I know and could tell, so that is not an option. I also managed to get a hold of the guy who actually designs and installs all of the heat pump units for my builder. I have talked with him on the phone, and he said that my house would most likely get a 5 ton unit. I don't know how he got to that conclusion, but that is what he said. He also said that they will get a set of plans from the builder and they will plan out the ductwork themselevs and measure all the heat loads for every room, depending on number of windows, window orientation and the like. I checked out the website you have linked me to, and all I have to say is WOW! First of all, they don't list the 5 ton units but on the 4 ton units I have seen absolutely zero difference between the XL16i and the XL19i. They were identical as far as I could tell, the XL16i even scored higher on the heating ratings. I wonder what the picture would look like on the 5 ton units. The other thing I have noticed is a lot of them had a mod status of Deleted, not active so there were no 4 active 4 ton units in the XL19i in the database. Right now I gave a proposal to my builder for the total cost of the house and I included an XL19i in the offer, we will see what they say and go from there. Do you know if there is any other benefit of the XL19i over the XL16i, as it shows that the SEER rating is not really something we can go by.....
No benefit of an XL19i over a 16i. Both require a var speed air handler. The XL19i uses R-22 refrigerant, the XL16i uses the R-410a new type refrigerant. If someone has said you require a 5 ton unit, I would definitely want to see that in writing-preferably the Manual J heat/cool load calculation with a room by room analysis. I don't believe that. Keep in mind that more is not better. I do like the idea of a 10 yr extended warranty that includes both parts and labor. I personally think the 19i is suited more for a tropical climate where heating is of little concern. I like the 16i better for your location. I also prefer individual room returns over central returns. Trane and other high end HVAC manufacturers should be a little more truthful as far as SEER and HSPF ratings for large tonnage units. My opinion. Good LUck!
TigerDunes, Thanks again for your informative post! The HVAC person I have talked with said that they include 3 returns in a house my size, but I am going to check out another house (exact same floorplan as mine) that is just at framing stage to see if they really did that on that house or not. If not, I will request it in writing on my contract. I will also check the tonnage of the unit they installed in that house. I guess if the builder will refuse my offer on the house, I can bargain by reducing my requirement from an XL19i to an XL16i with some discount. That should leave him with more profit but I would still be under my offer price, and as it seems I would not gain much by going to the XL19i anyway..... Thanks again, it's a shame that Trane SEER numbers are so deceiving.
Update: I just signed a contract with my builder tonight, and we negotiated for me to get an XL16i unit. The option sheet does not specify anything else other than an XL16i heat pump upgrade so I have to call the HVAC sub and make sure that they bid and install it with the R-8 ducktwork and the 7 day touch screen thermostat plus the 10 year parts AND labor warranty. I also stopped by the house that was in framing stage which has the exact same floorplan as mine. It had 3 return ducts installed so I guess that should be adequate. I am sure I will be very happy with the XL16i unit!
GTakacs I would be interested in what size XL16i HP your HVAC dealer has indicated is called for.I would ask for a Manual J load calculation in writing. While I prefer individual returns for improved air flow/circulation, I know the new homes usually come with central returns-a shortcut that has become standard for new construction. I would ask your dealer if it is feasible for one additional return to be added and if the return air filters will be changed out inside the house or has dealer included a whole house 5 pleated filter cabinet at return entry into air handler(Trane has one,Aprilaire,or Honeywell make them as well). Good Luck! One suggestion which should be SOP with your HVAC dealer. Make certain thermostat is installed in a convenient central location perferably in a hallway away from any heat/light source and between or near a return. Stay away from any drop down attic steps.
Tags: trane, seer, heat, pump, upgrade, cost, heat pump, said that, load calculation, parts labor, SEER HSPF, that house, that they