I'm looking for a dado blade for my 10 table saw. They come in different sizes that would work with my saw and I'm wondering which size is best for what.
I use a 6 stacked dado set on my table saw. Since dados are cut with a fairly shallow depth, you don't need much more than about an inch above the table surface.
If your saw does not have a lot of horsepower you may think about getting a single blade offset dado cutter.
uses about 1/3 the horsepower as a standard stacked dado set.
With carbide tips it will last longer for the price.
I have an 8 Craftsman wobble dado blade (like this one: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...subcat=Blades ) that I've been more than happy with. (about $50) Wobble dado's have a dial that controls how much the blade tips from side to side as it turns, and you can adjust it anywhere from 3/16 to 13/16. Some people don't like wobble dados because they do not make a perfectly square dado, but I've never had a problem with that. To be truthful, you can hardly notice it and in most cases, it doesn't matter anyway because that part of the joint is usually hidden. I like the fact that it is quick and easy to set, and I know exactly how wide the dado will be just by setting the dial.
Thanks for all the replies so far!
I have a 3hp table saw and would like to have square cuts. Is there any difference in performance between stacked and adjustable dadoes?
What about the ones I see on eBay for under $10?
I use an eight inch stacked Freud dado set and have had years of success with it. If you plan on using a dado blade fairly often on hardwood invest in a quality set. If only for occasional use and mostly softwood a wobble type blade is fine. Be leery of cheap imported carbide knockoffs. If you lose a tooth while cutting they can be lethal.
Like xsleeper, the wobble blade does a fine job, with less than perfectly square bottoms, but mostly unnoticeable. I have recently invested in a stacked blade system with shims, and there is a noticeable difference. While the wobble blade is infinitely variable, I was constantly unable to keep it in the proper position to cut exactly what I wanted. It would move on me before I got the saw arbor nut tightened. With the stacked head, nothing is left to the imagination. You use 1/8th inch blades and chippers until you get to a need for a 1/16th inch increment, then add it in. The bottoms are square, and accurate. As mentioned also, your kerfs are only going to be about 3/8 to 1/2 in depth anyway, so you can get by with a 6 wobble or 8 stack.
Don't forget to invest in or make a dado slot for your saw, since the regular blade slot is too narrow. I prefer to use the nylon inserts for regular blades, and have one cut at about 1/2 to handle most of my dado jobs.
Be careful, and remember to keep accurate count of your fingers. You have 10.
I have the same experience as xsleeper. The wobble dado works fine provided your setup for the cut is meticulous. It is worthwhile to mark the right and left most tooth for the cut you are making. My sears blade doesn't creep open but you have to put it on the arbor carefully. Next make a sample pass with only a fraction of the blade protuding (say 1/32). Check this out for the position of the groove and then lock your fence. I find that I need to come up no more than 1/4 for each pass. It happens today I am grooving rock maple. I also find that the work tends to rise and ride the blade so you need good hold downs against the fence and above the stock on either side of the spinning blade. I use two wooden push sticks and three separate hold downs. It takes a while to get ready but I play guitar and don't want to loose any fingers. I wish I could post a photo so I could show folks what I mean by three hold downs.
This is a 3 yr old thread and the OP is no longer a member.
Tags: dado, blade, best, dado blade, hold downs, more than, dado have, find that, perfectly square, stacked dado, wobble blade, xsleeper wobble
